Easter in Normandy

I am a little behind in my blogging, but the eve of the 70th anniversary of D-Day seems the perfect time to post about our Easter trip to Normandy. (*Please note that Bill is the guest author for the remainder of the post.)

After a lot of driving around in circles in the Normandy countryside we finally found our place, the incredible "Chateau de Ragny," the gateway is all that remains of the XIth century fortified castle.  The main house dates back to the 1600's with additions in the early 1800's.  During WWII, the German Army used the house as a headquarters for a local commander, some of the outbuildings were used to billet panzer tanks. German Field Marshal Erwin Rommel spent a night at the Chateau while inspecting the Atlantic Wall defenses.  

 The small chapel in the corner of the wall was built in 1453 to commemorate the French victory in the Hundred Years War, the construction was funded by the King of France.

      The main house

 The owners were a very friendly retired couple from Paris, they always put up the flags of the people staying at the guest house.  When we drove in, they originally had a German flag, as soon as they realized we were Americans living in Germany they immediately changed the flag. :-)

 The owners insisted on showing Jake and Bria their chickens, and let them pick freshly laid eggs; not a bad Easter egg hunt.  For the rest of our time there, Bria ran around the grounds of the Chateau yelling, "hello eggs!"

6 JUNE 1944:  "The Longest Day"

"The first 24 hours of the invasion will be decisive...The fate of Germany depends on the outcome...For the Allies, as well as Germany, it will be the longest day." -Field Marshal Erwin Rommel

We spent the first day exclusively visiting the area in and around the Normandy beaches, it was here that the Allies carried out the largest military operation in history.  On these serene beaches and quaint French towns the Allies finally gained a foothold in France, ensuring that Nazi Europe was doomed to crumble.  The sacrifices which these men made on 6 June literally shaped the world we live in today, it was a powerful scene and an emotional day.  

 Heading to the cliffs at Arromanches with Jake, between the American beaches (Utah and Omaha) and the British and Canadian beaches (Gold, Juno, Sword)

Incredible view, its hard to look out and not imagine the terrible human carnage and suffering which took place here 70 years ago.  Side note: Jake kept his sword close, just in case any pirates showed up at the Normandy coast.

 "Mulberry B," also known as Port Winston, was the world's first prefabricated harbor. The Allies intentionally sunk old Navy ships to build a harbor and control the tides, they can still be seen in the water today.  In the 10 months following D-Day, this man-made harbor was used to land over 2.5 million men, 500K vehicles, and 4 million tons of supplies to reinforce the Allied campaign in Europe.

 A couple of new Jeep drivers ready to take the road.

                                    

                                    

 Erin and I standing on Omaha Beach, a site of horrific violence.  Soldiers from the American 1st and 29th infantry divisions, along with Army Rangers showed tremendous courage when they stepped off landing crafts and stormed German position on the bluffs along the beach.  Almost 5,000 Americans paid the ultimate price on this beach alone on D-Day, their heroic action turned the tide of the war and will never be forgotten.

 Jake and Bria running and playing on the "Vierville draw," a natural path inland, where American soldiers made the first breakthrough inland to assault the bluffs ahead.

"Soldier's graves are the greatest preachers of peace." -Albert Schweitzer

Next we headed to Vierville-sur-Mer to the American Military Cemetery, it was a powerful and overwhelming experience.  Seeing the shear numbers of young Americans who sacrificed everything on that day was a devastating sight.   

 

 "Their graves are the permanent and visible symbol of their heroic devotion and their sacrifice in the common cause of humanity."

                                      

"They gave up two lives--the one they were living and the one they would have lived.  When they died, they gave up their chance to be husbands and fathers and grandfathers.  They gave up their chance to be revered old men.  They gave up everything for our country, for us.  All we can do is remember."

"A comrade in arms known but to God," the marking on the grave of a soldier who could not be identified because the wounds were too devastating, an awful lot of graves were marked in this manner.

They sacrificed everything, in the hope that we would never have to.  To the soldiers, sailors, and airmen buried here, we can never thank them enough.

Bria says hello to the soldiers.

 

 Next we headed to "Pointe du Hoc," the massive cliff's between Utah and Omaha beach, where the German army had placed giant 155mm artillery bunkers.  I knew the history of what the U.S. Army Rangers did here, but seeing it in person was one of the most impressive things I have ever seen.

As the French sign says when entering the area, "this site witnessed extraordinary acts of courage."  The Germans felt that their position at Pointe du Hoc could not possibly be taken by sea, the cliffs were simply too steep. On the morning of 6 June, the 2nd and 5th Ranger Battalion landed by sea at the foot of the cliff, and scaled them using ropes, ladders and grapples while under heavy enemy fire.  They then took the bunkers on the cliffs and held them from repeated German counterattacks.    

Honored by three U.S. Presidents, one said "These are the boys of Pointe du Hoc.  These are the men who took the cliffs.  These are the champions who helped free a continent.  These are the heroes who helped end a war." -Ronald Reagan

                                     

Dear visitors..."walking into the craters of the bombs and on top of the bunkers is not advisable because of the danger."  Don't see that every day.

In an attempt to take out the German guns, the Air Force and Navy pummeled Pointe du Hoc with bombs and artillery that moved the earth.  The grounds are still covered with enormous house sized craters. 

Kids trying to climb up the side of a bomb crater.

 The remains of German batteries and bunkers along the cliffs.

Eerie, several floors down deep inside one of the German bunkers, where the Rangers have permanently placed their crest, gotta love it.  

Inside the bunker, for a German soldier's view of the landings, it was about to be a very bad day.

 Are you kidding me?  A look down at the cliffs from atop.  I would be impressed by anyone who could just climb this, let alone do it under heavy fire.  Standing here, you cannot help but be incredibly impressed by what the Rangers did.

 Certified American badass, Capt John Raaen of the 5th Rangers.  As his landing craft approached the cliffs they saw no signals which indicated they had secured Pointe du Hoc.  Thinking the assault had failed, they were ordered to divert and join the landings at the dog green sector of Omaha beach.  They later attacked Pointe du Hoc by land, and relieved their fellow Ranger's.  

Last we stopped at the town of Ste. Mere Eglise to see the U.S. Airborne museum.  This town was one of the main objectives of the U.S. 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions who jumped into Normandy the night before the landings.  The town is in the middle of a highway which would have been used by the Germans to mount any significant counterattack on our troops landing at Utah and Omaha.    

The townspeople have put a permanent paratrooper hanging from a parachute, which you can see caught on the spire of the church in the town center.  This is in honor of U.S. Private John M. Steele who famously got stuck there on the night of 6 June.  

No laughing matter:  Private Steele hung there for two hours helplessly as he watched the carnage of many of his defenseless comrades being gunned down in the square.  Steele pretended to be dead but was eventually taken prisoner by the Germans, he then escaped captivity and rejoined his unit as they re-attacked the village capturing thirty Germans and killing another eleven.  Steele was one of only a few U.S. non-casualties who landed in that area.  The French town still has taverns and hotels named after him.  

Jake is ready in case any of those dirty pirates come to Ste. Mere Eglise.

We stopped for dinner in a small French tavern, you can see that they still honor the American airborne divisions which liberated this town 70 years ago, their patches are still proudly displayed on the walls.  

On day two we made a stop at the German Military Cemetery which is the final resting place of over 21,000 German soldiers, the visit was somber and thought-provoking.  Compared to the Allied cemeteries which are very light, symbolizing hope and victory, the German cemetery is a clear symbol of defeat and despair.  The site is bleak and dark, with two graves per simple marker.  All of the unknown soldiers are piled and covered in a circular mound, seen in the center.  Of particular note to me was the birth/death dates on many of the graves and the incredible number of 18 year old kids buried here.  Whether they were eager participants or forced into service (as many were), at that young age, they could not possibly fully comprehend the cause for which they gave their lives, a tremendous tragedy.